Best of the Best 2011 – Perfumes and Perfumers

If anyone had told me what kind of year I would have just three hundred and sixty four days ago, I wouldn’t have believed it. I would have believed it even less if I had known what magic carpet rides I would encounter, what places I would go, or what marvels I would breathe.

This has been an impossible list, impossible because there have just been so many discoveries and so many perfumes, perfumers and fellow bloggers I would have loved to have on my list, but if I wrote about them all – and surely, I’ve tried? – we’d be here until next year.

Instead, I’ve split my best of the best into three – this one, to celebrate the perfumes and perfumers I was introduced to in this momentous year, second, to celebrate my favorite reading material/avoidance actions/friends and facilitators, and third, a tribute to the ones I wore with a passion and loved with a fury. The perfumes I mention in this post have been without exception released this year, which meant omitting others that were released previously, but they’ll receive their own mention in Part Three. It also means that in spite of other important releases issued, I’ve only mentioned those I’ve had the opportunity to try.

Indie Love!

My heart belongs to the indie perfumers of the world. With a few notable exceptions, the idea of handling a perfume bottle that has been touched by the hands that made it, the mind that conceived it, the perfumer who wrote me, wrapped it up and sent it to me, Ms. No One In Particular, makes it that much more…special.

All the indie perfumers who have made it to my Best of list put the ‘mano’ in the Italian phrase ‘fatto à mano’, made by hand, made with love, care and ‘ àl ‘onore della m’arte ’ – “in honor of my art”, an art that mainstream releases all too often ignore in their mercilessly commercialized hunt for the Next Big Thing.

It is a dedication I have rarely found until this past year, a dedication I had all but given up on ever finding again. When you support the indies, you support the artists themselves instead of filling the already overstuffed coffers of Sanofi, Proctor&Gamble, LVMH…

Support your indie perfumers, and you support a commitment to quality and artistic vision that even the Fragrance Foundation itself has now acknowledged with a category all its own. For a reason – the indies are…that good! They do it without much advertising, but only simple editorial write-up (if they’re lucky to get it), reputation/word of mouth and a little help from the blogosphere.

The Perfumers

This was the year I discovered the staggering creativity of American artisanal perfumery. Granted, I had a lot of help to point me in that direction, but geez, Louise…the scope, the breadth, their sheer jawdropping, sleight-of-hand artistry…

Each has their own personal signature, that singular touch and aesthetic vocabulary that makes them instantly recognizable.

This being my own year of Great Epiphanies, I’ve decided that rather than single out one of them, I’ve put them all up on the Number One spot. Ladies – you have all won my heart and undying loyalty to my dying day, and I can’t ever imagine a perfumed life without any of you!

Mandy Aftel, Aftelier Perfumes

The early morning I found an email from Mandy Aftel in my inbox redefined that lovely Yiddish word…’plotz’. Yes, I did. I had read reviews, I had perused her website, I had some intimations of what to expect…so I thought. Nothing could have prepared me for the olfactory shock treatment my Jacobsens’s organ had in store. Mandy’s perfumes redefine sensual shock treatment. Mandy had an amazingly creative year – with Haute Claire in her collaboration with Liz Zorn, with Oud Luban for the Clarimonde Project, and with Secret Garden, her tribute to the classic florals of yore in collaboration with Dawn Spencer Hurwitz. Heaven help me, I love them all. Mandy herself has been a constant encouragement and inspiration for me this past year, and for that, I love her, too!

Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Parfums de Beaux Arts

Where does Dawn Spencer Hurwitz quit? I mean…where does she quit? First, she blew my mind with Vert pour Madame, a throwback to my most favorite ever perfume family, the green floral chypre, and next, she created the Cities of Splendor collection in a unique collaboration with the Denver Art Museum, and then…she gave us Pandora, her staggering ode to Mousse de Saxe, and to top it off, she also gave us Paradise Lost for the Clarimonde Project. Not one I couldn’t love, not one I couldn’t rhapsodize about until the cows came home, not one misstep. Dawn’s perfumes will surely be the death of my borrowed credit card. Or me, whichever comes first.

Maria McElroy, Aroma M

Maria is someone who somehow manages to bridge the gap between the time-honored art of Japanese perfumery and thoroughly modern Western scented sensibilities. Her Geisha perfume line of eaux de parfums and perfume oils is incredibly diverse and heart-rendingly beautiful, and therapeutical, too! She outdid even herself when she gave us Geisha Amber Rouge, a thick, heady, all-out outrageously opulent take on her famous Geisha Rouge (another favorite of mine), but she also created Immortal Mine for the Clarimonde Project with Alexis Karl, with whom she makes Cherry Bomb Killer Perfumes. Maria has become very dear to me and she is as lovely in person as her breathtaking perfumes.

Kedra Hart, Opus Oils

I have reasons to suspect that Kedra Hart conjures up an imp for every perfume she makes, because in every Opus Oil perfume I’ve ever tried, it sneaks out and makes me write things or imagine things I never dreamed I could. Mischief and mayhem, time travel and Tiger, and I never know where I’ll end up, but it will certainly… be so much fun, I have to do it again. And again. Kedra, too has had a banner year…with her soliflore collection of good-time gals Les Bohemes, with her Wild Child that won the Patchouli Summer of Love award (and put the POW! in patchouli), with Starfucker for her house model, Tiger the Tempter, and with her latest amazing creation, the world’s first perfume for anosmics, Eau Pear Tingle, which I can’t wait to try. Had I but known that perfumed perdition could be so much fun…and I suspect, there will be…many more imps to come! And a Tiger. And other hazards to my sanity…

Honorable Mention:

No slight is intended to either Liz Zorn of Soivohle/Acoustijuice or Neil Morris, except to say I have been thrilled beyond measure and compare to explore two more lines I had never had the opportunity to try. Expect to see reviews of both Liz Zorn and more Neil Morris in the coming year!

Best Mainstream Niche:

The three that made it to this part of my list are both made by houses that hold a special place in my heart – Amouage and Serge Lutens. What’s worse is that I’ve only reviewed one of them, which will be amended shortly. My opinion is definitely in the minority, but I don’t care – they are each of them the reason I love what I do.

Vitriol d’Oeillet, Serge Lutens & Christopher Sheldrake

Serge Lutens released Jeux de Peau, Vitriol d’Oeillet and De Profundiis this year, and much as I liked Jeux de Peau with its burnt toast, melted butter and delicious sandalwood drydown, I loved Vitriol so much, I arranged for a decant…and drained it. I’m no stranger to the old-fashioned splendors of carnation, but not many carnations have surprised me so consistently as this one, from its pepper punch opening to its silky-smooth drydown and its hourglass shaped development.

Honour Man & Honour Woman, Nathalie Feisthauer, Alexandra Carlin, Violaine Collas with Christopher Chong, Amouage

One thing to love about Amouage is how their perfumes tell two sides to the same story from a masculine and a feminine perspective. Inspired by the final act of ‘Madame Butterfly’ as a filial tribute, they both represent something new – the resinous, black pepper explosion of Honour Man, and the love letter to the big, white floral feminine that is Honour Woman. Both beautifully rendered, both surprising, both stunning. As for the ex who drained my sample of Honour Man to the last drop…he can buy his own!

Favorite Indie Trend:

Once upon a time, I gave up hope that anyone, anywhere would ever love the Green Fiends of yore as much as I did. Was I ever…wrong! I came to discover the marvels of Puredistance Antonia, Aftelier’s breathtaking conciliation of galbanum and ylang ylang, Haute Claire, and Dawn Spencer Hurwitz’ Vert pour Madame and Pandora. Green is the color of hope, and all of these give me just that. If I were to look into a magic mirror and predict what might lie ahead, that rediscovery of green would be one trend, but more importantly, I believe that indie perfumers are rediscovering the inherent challenges and thrills of the all-out, opulent florals…as we saw with Aftelier’s Secret Garden, or the opulent Oriental, such as Aroma M Geisha Amber Rouge.

Worst Mainstream Launch of the Year:

Chanel no. 19 Poudré

I had such high hopes for this one, was so excited to try it, and was so unbelievably let down. What on Earth were Chanel thinking when they decided to give Chanel no. 19 a makeover? Yes, it’s difficult, yes, it’s different, and yes…it’s an icon for a reason. So they took my beloved no. 19, which I’ve worn for almost thirty years without fail, filleted it, flattened it, and added an overdose of baby powder to make it more palatable for the mainstream consumers who might be intimidated by the original. I was hoping for a no. 19 Eau Premiere. What I got was a pale, wan, semi-starved seventeen-year-old who photographs well but is very vague in person. Me, I’ll take intimidation any day of any year.

Worst Advertising Idea, Ever:

Nothing against the lovely Natalie Portman, you understand, but I am…in an outrage of epic proportions when I see that Dior has now dropped the ‘Cherie’ from Miss Dior Cherie and is now promoting it as simply Miss Dior. Now, an entire generation will equate this hot, synthetic strawberry mess with the perfume that made Dior famous. This is superbad in the worst possible way.

Best Mainstream Launch:

Bottega Veneta

Color me surprised. When a fashion brand best known for its hyper-luxe gloves and woven-leather handbags launched its own eponymous perfume, I had no expectations whatsoever. So I was in the perfect place to be taken aback by the restrained, elegant and very ladylike Bottega Veneta, which is nowhere so restrained it’s boring, but also so consistently well-made, it’s easy to love, even for this cranky leather fan. I might even buy it, so long as I get a handbag, too.

Coolest Fusion of Fumes and Phrases:

When Lucy of Indieperfumes asked me to participate in the Clarimonde Project in time for Halloween, thrilled was not the word to describe my reaction. A vampire story unlike any other, an immersion into the netherworld of dark and light, faith and passion – what wasn’t to love about that idea? Seven bloggers, six perfumers, one story and a kind of synergy I have a hard time describing, but some kind of magic occurred along the way, something very special was created in both perfumes and words, and in several compelling ways, I’m not quite what I was that day I wrote her back to say I’d love to be a part of it. Monica Miller of Perfume Pharmer, Mandy Aftel, Ayala Moriel, Dawn Spencer Hurwitz, Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl all rose spectacularly to the challenge of being inspired by Théophile Gautier’s 1836 story, and it was all this blogger at least could do to hope I was up for doing each of their creations the justice they deserved. Certainly, Monica, Trish of ScentHive, Lucy, Beth of PerfumeSmellin’ Things, Jade Dressler, Deana Sidney of LostPastRemembered and I pulled no punches each in our own ways to dive into the vials and wrest their interpretations of the story from them. All  – the words and the perfumes – happily coalesced into a special kind of magic I will always feel proud to have been a part of.

Most Dangerous Perfume of the Year:

Maria McElroy and Alexis Karl, Immortal Mine for the Clarimonde Project

I have reasons to suspect that on occasion, not even the perfumers involved in creating a perfume are entirely aware of just what genie they’re unleashing upon an unsuspecting world. The term ‘mortal peril’ is a bit of a cliché in perfume terms, but in the case of Immortal Mine, take my word for it – it’s no cliché here! I broke that dripping, blood-red wax seal and my blood immediately ran icy cold and scorching hot. Even now, I get goosebumps just thinking about it. Magic, mojo, that blood of a slayed Wyvern, the soil from an unmarked grave…whatever else they put into Immortal Mine, it is, hands down, the most dangerous thing I’ve smelled all year, and likely ever in my life. They will have to wrest this one from my cold, dead hands if they can…or bury me with it, so I can haunt my descendants!

Stay tuned tomorrow for Part Two – and more favorites of the year! And tell me, what were your best and worst of 2011?

Image: The Coronation crown of King Christian V of Denmark, made in 1670-71 by goldsmith Paul Kurtz in Copenhagen. This is the crown depicted on all DK coins and it is known as ‘The Crown of Absolute Sovereignty’. Image from the Royal Danish Collections at Rosenborg Castle, Copenhagen.

24 thoughts on “Best of the Best 2011 – Perfumes and Perfumers

  1. So lovely! Thank YOU for all the beauty you’ve brought to us with your words this year. I have loved the way you make perfumes into characters in a fairy tale that tells us so much more about the beauty within you and ourselves. I am so looking forward to whatever you will do next — and I totally agree about Immortal Mine, it is madness.

    1. Well, Lucy, it just so happens you had not a little to do with that beauty! 😉 I don’t think I’ve ever realized just what I started when I began my narrative reviews, but sometimes, it’s the best way to capture the intangible! Can’t wait for the adventures we’ll share…and as for Immortal Mine…madness! Oh, yes!

  2. Fabulous review of your perfumed year, darlink! What a time you had. You know that 2012 will be even more exciting for you, right? It will!

    I cannot agree with you more that the Miss Dior Cherie campaign is awful. It reminds me of those old Love’s Baby Soft ads. Gak! I thought that was Ms. Portman in the Bottega Venata ads too So glad it isn’t. She’s a beautiful woman, but get out of my face already!! 😉

    The Clarimonde project was fascinating; a unique project with so many profound themes – life, death, love, sacrifice and the smell of it all. Bravo!

    1. What a time I had – and what a time WE had, sweetie! 😀 I have my reasons to suspect that 2012 will be an even bigger adventure for both YOU and me!

      Ah, that terrible Miss Dior campaign…as beautiful as Ms. Portman is, it’s a terrible, terrible mistake..

      Clarimonde…what a story! What a ride! What fun!

  3. Agree totally with your love/support of indie perfumers–the creativity and quality these artisans display are tremendous! A recommendation for 2012–if you haven’t tried any of Laurie Erickson’s perfumes, definitely give Sonoma Scent Studio fragrances a try. She offers a wide range of scents in friendly sizes, and does wonderful sampler packs as well. Plus she is one of the nicest people you’ll encounter!

    1. Sharon…Laurie Erickson is on my shortlist of indies to explore – it just so happens that a dear friend sent me a sample of ‘Fig Tree’ recently, which will be reviewed in the new year! Can’t wait!

  4. Thank you so much Sheila for including me and all of my new perfumes in your Best of the Best, I am so happy with this wonderful honor! I’m deeply appreciative of your incredible ability to get inside the essence of my work and write about it so beautifully. I treasure our close connection.
    xo Mandy

    1. Mandy…never forget – I put you on that pedestal in my perfumed Pantheon for a reason – you deserve to be there! 🙂 I treasure your creations – and I treasure our connection, too! XO

  5. Dearest Sheila, You are a Perfumer’s Dream! ;~) I am so deeply touched to be named in your “Best of the Best,” you have no idea!!! I treasure each and every one of your absolutely fabulous & magical reviews, and I can’t thank you enough for taking the time and energy to grace us with your delightful imaginings! Thank you, thank you, thank you!
    X0X0,
    Kedra

    1. Kedra, darling, may I say it – that sample order was some of the best money I spent this year! 😀 The pleasure was all mine for all the delights, perils and thrills you’ve given me! I’m still working my way throughthose samples – and I can promise you this – there will be so much more to come! XOXO

  6. Really enjoyed part one of your round up, not least the fun categories!

    I really liked Bottega Veneta, Honour Woman, puredistance1 and Antonia (eventually!) and Vitriol d’Oeillet, but I also liked Chanel No 19 Poudre, so there we diverge. I must say I haven’t really explored the indie scene particularly, and haven’t had much success with the scdnts

    1. Oops – iPhone malfunction! Meant to say the scents in some ranges, though I may just have picked the wrong ones for my tastes, which is easily done. Quite curious about the Aroma M line – well, the quieter scents in it, that is. You know what I am like… : – )

    2. Vanessa…may I point you in the direction of Maria’s Aroma M…I think I can say, knowing something of your tastes, that you may like Geisha Blue and Geisha Blanche, as well as her exquisitely refined O-cha line. They are the epitome of restraint, elegance and originality and they last and last! 🙂

  7. A great list!
    And I was very happy to read you liked Vitriol. I do too, and keep wondering at all the bad/critical reviews it gets.

    I’m looking forward to reading part 2. 🙂

    1. Thank you, Ines! Yes, I did love Vitriol, and still do – it’s the most surprising carnation I’ve ever met! But I can’t say I’m too surprised at the many negative reviews…it’s a rather radical departure for Serge Lutens, and with that kind of reputation to live up to, radical departures aren’t always appreciated.

      Who cares? We know what WE love! 😉

  8. I’ve read this part 2.5 times already (.5 was when I was linking to it) but every time something comes up and I leave without commenting. So now I just have to do it – or it will be too too late.

    I had a very limited exposure to indie brands but with everything else I agree completely. And I’m also in the SL’s camp when it comes to this year’s releases.

  9. (for whatever strange reason I wasn’t able to post my comment from the mobile version – if suddenly two extra comments appear, please delete them)

    I had a very limited exposure to indie brends but with everything else I agree completely. And I’m also in the SL’s camp when it comes to this year’s releases.

  10. i fell in love with amarige from givenchy this year.coco chanel is still amazing,as is crystalle frm chanel.the different and subtille table for smelling seperate perfumes at gallerie lafayette at diors,is sublime.a paris,je t aime.and the alchemist of essentiels oils at the place clichy area,where they reheat your rose absolute,pure and unaldulterated is worth the wait

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